Streamer Gear

If you’re like me you’ve dabbled with the idea of upgrading your streamer gear for years, but for whatever reason you just haven’t made the move. You’re still using that same old 9′ 5 weight. Some of this may be due to the associated costs of an upgrade, some of it may just be lack of interest or knowledge of what to buy? Either way if you’re on the fence regarding a change, hopefully our discussion on streamer gear (rods, line, leader, and reels) will help give you some needed direction if you decide to make that leap.

Rod Weights

In the world of trout fishing there are really only three weights to consider when it comes to a streamer rod… 6, 7, and 8 weights. Yes, you can get away with throwing a streamer on a 5 weight, as I’ve done for years, but as I shared in my first post in this series, it’s not ideal. That said, there is a reason the more serious streamer angler opts to go with a larger rod. One of the main advantages is that a heavier weight rod will help you not only throw that gnarly streamer further and more effectively, but it will also give you more leverage over that big fish when you do hook up. This extra power will go a long way towards tiring out the fish before your arm.

So first question… is there an ideal weight or “sweet spot” when it comes to these three rod options? Well, it really depends on the water you are fishing. Bigger water calls for a rod that warrants bigger, longer casts. That means the rod will need the beef and butt section stiffness to throw a heavy streamer out further across the water. Smaller rivers in tight spaces, where less casting distance is needed, a lighter rod with a bit more overall flex would be recommended.

There is also the mobility factor to consider. If most of your streamer fishing is on foot, where you’ll be hiking or exploring more remote areas, then I would lean towards the lighter of the three rods. If you’re doing most of your streamer fishing from a boat, where carrying weight isn’t a factor, go as heavy as you want. Your arm and shoulder will be none the wiser!

Rod Lengths

Streamer rod length is a bit of a preference thing in my opinion. Some fisherman will say longer is better, others say shorter is the way to go. In general a longer rod will help you cast further and pick up line off the water easier. This can be a huge upside on bigger rivers, and still water situations where throwing sinking tip or full sink lines are a must. The downside to a longer rod however is the compromise you make with accuracy. If you’re fishing smaller water with tighter windows where accuracy is essential, a shorter rod might be the way to go.

Rod Summary

  • If you predominantly fish small to medium sized rivers and streams where accuracy is paramount and shorter casts are needed, go with a 6-7 weight rod in a 8.5′ length.
  • If you mainly fish still waters and bigger rivers, or you predominantly fish from a boat where longer casts are needed, go with a 7-8 weight rod in a 10′ length.
  • If you are looking for a more versatile hybrid rod, one that would cover the majority of situations, go with a 6-7 weight rod in a 9′ length.
  • The above recommendations are only that… recommendations. The best way to dial in on rod size is to actually cast some rods. Visit your local fly shop and throw some different weights and lengths, consider the types of water you’ll be fishing, then make your decision.

Rod Recommendations

Mid Range ($500+)

  • G Loomis IMX-Pro V2: 7/8 wt
  • Echo Streamer X: 6/7/8 wt
  • Sage Payload: 6/7/8 wt

High End Range ($1,000+)

  • Orvis Helios D: 6/7/8 wt
  • Scott Sector: 6/7/8 wt
  • Winston Air 2 Max: 6/7 wt

Line Weight

Line weight is where things start to get a bit messy, but before we jump into the messiness, I would like to first explain the relationship between line weight and rod weight. This will be helpful when trying to choose the right streamer rig.

It’s recommended that rod weight and line weight be aligned… meaning a 6 weight rod should have a 6 weight line. This is so rod manufacturers can guarantee a rod performs at the level for which it was designed. You can however put a heavier line on your rod if you so choose (usually no more than one size) and fisherman will do this when they are trying to push their rod to cast further or cast heavier flies. This is what’s called overlining a rod. The downside to this is the additional line weight will slow down your rod overall as it causes it to flex more.

Ok, now moving on. From here out I will focus on the three line characteristics I feel are most important when it comes to streamer lines… Weight Forward, Grain Weight, and Sink Rate. Let’s break these down.

Weight Forward (WF)
This is a term referring to how weight is distributed throughout the line. A weight forward line is as stated, the weight is concentrated within the first 30 feet or so of line and tapered down towards the tip. This is considered the best type of line for streamer fishing as the heavier head loads the rod quicker helping to turn over bigger flies more efficiently.

Grain Weight

If you’ve ever researched fly line before you’ve probably heard the term “grain weight” thrown around. Grain weight is essentially a standard of measure set by the American Fly Fishing Trade Association (AFFTA) assigning a specific weight to a specific line. For instance, based on AFFTA standards, a 6 weight line should be close or equal to 160 grains for the first 30 feet of line. Seems simple right? Well, unfortunately it’s a bit more complicated. A lot has changed since this standard was set back in 1960. With the evolution of rod technology over the past few decades rods are capable of casting further than ever before. To stay up to speed, line manufacturers have had to advance as well, resulting in heavier lines with larger heads and aggressive tapers. Though the AFFTA standard is still alive and well there is a significant gap between the old standard and our current day line grains (higher numbers today). Some blame the manufacturers for not aligning their specs, others think AFFTA should adjust. Either way we are where we are.

So what does this mean for us the angler? Well it’s important to understand grain weight and the history behind it, but don’t get too caught up in the hoopla. Be aware of the AFFTA standards, but also know there is a reason the numbers won’t always align. It’s ok to trust the manufacturers and go heavier if your application necessitates it.

AFFTA standard for first 30′ of line:

  • 5 weight line = 134 – 140 – 146 grain
  • 6 weight line = 152 – 160 – 168 grain
  • 7 weight line = 177 – 185 – 193 grain
  • 8 weight line = 202 – 210 – 218 grain
  • 9 weight line = 230 – 240 – 250 grain

Sink Rate (IPS)
IPS refers to the sink rate of a fly line… specifically how many inches the line sinks per second. Where as line grain correlates to the weight of the line, sink rate pertains to the density of the line. Density is controlled by a special powder-tungsten coating applied to the outside of the line.

General sink rates run from 1-7 IPS. Slow moving shallow water will demand a slower IPS (1-3). Quicker, deeper currents will call for a faster IPS (4-7).

Line Type

Here we will spend a little time talking through the different types of fly line. Though our main focus for this post will be streamer application, it makes sense to discuss all the main fly line types as there is some crossover.

Floating Line
This is by far the most popular and versatile of all the line types. As the name suggests, this line is fully floating so it’s best suited for dry fly and nymphing situations. It can be used for streamers though if paired with a sinking or poly leader. Doing so basically converts your floating line to a sink tip line.

Full Sink line
Again, pretty straight forward. This line is fully sinking. It is best used in still water or big river applications where anglers need to get their fly down evenly across a larger body of water.

Intermediate Sink Line

This is similar to a full sink line as it is weighted throughout its entirety. The difference is it has a slower sink rate so it is good for “low and slow” still water applications where you need a level but shallower retrieve… 1-4′ below surface.

Integrated Sink Tip Line

The integrated sink tip line is a hybrid between a floating and full sink line. This is the best of both worlds for the streamer fisherman. You get the buoyancy of a floating line towards the upper section of your line, integrated with the weight of a sink line towards the tip. For river applications where you want to quickly get your fly down under the fast current, while still managing your line atop the water’s surface, this is the perfect setup.

Sink Tip Line

Line Summary

  • If you predominantly fish small to medium sized rivers go with an WF integrated sink tip line.
  • If you mainly fish deep still waters or frequent larger rivers go with a WF full sink line.
  • If you fish shallower still waters where you need a slower sink rate go with an WF intermediate sink line.
  • Your line weight should always be driven by your rod weight. You can however overline a rod one size if necessary.
  • Grain weight often gets confused with sink rate. These are two completely different things. Grain weight effects how your line relates to your rod. Sink rate is how your line relates to the water.

Line Recommendations

Entry Level Range ($60)

  • Scientific Anglers Frequency Sink Tip Fly Line Type III | 10′ Sink Tip | 2.5-4.0 ips

Mid Range ($100)

  • Scientific Anglers | Sonar Titan Sink Tip | 10-14′ Sink Tip | 3 and 6 ips
  • RIO Elite Predator Fly Line | Streamer Fishing Line | 10′ Sink Tip | 3-7 ips
  • RIO Premier Streamer Tip | 10′ Sink Tip | Intermediate and 6 ips

Leaders

Streamer leaders will differ one from another based on the water you fish and the fly line you choose. The below is my setup for fishing small to medium sized rivers using a WF integrated sink tip line.

A loop to loop connection is the easiest and most streamlined approach for connecting your fly line to your leader. This is best done by tying a perfection loop at the upper end of your leader and feeding it through the factory built-in loop of your fly line.

For the leader butt material I like to use a piece of monofilament around 12-14 inches long. If I have an old leader I will repurpose a piece out of the butt section and go that route. Either way I like to use mono here as it’s more flexible than fluorocarbon… and less expensive. In terms of thickness this should be based off your rod/line weight, but somewhere between 15-25 lbs should be targeted for a 6-8 weight line.

From the end of this piece of monofilament I will now tie on a piece of fluorocarbon tippet material between 18-36 inches depending on my situation. This can be done with a surgeon’s knot, or better yet add a tippet ring via a clinch knot for added strength. For tippet thickness I wouldn’t go any thinner than 0-2x.

Note: When considering tippet length keep this in mind. For river applications where 10-15′ retrieves are needed, a shorter tippet is preferred (18-24″). This is because there is less time for your tippet to sink so the closer your streamer is to your weighted line the quicker it will get down into the “zone”.

Streamer Leader

Leader Material Recommendations

Butt Section

  • Maxima Monofilament Clear (15, 20, 25 lbs) – Stiffer
  • Maxima Monofilament Ultra Green (15, 20, 25 lbs) – More flexible

Tippet Section

  • Rio FluoroFlex (0x, 1x, 2x)

Reels

What is it about a fly reel that’s so darn cool? Is it the soft rounded lines, the smooth machined metal, or is it the deep vibrant colors that make a reel so eye catching? Maybe it’s all of the above. To be honest, if fly reels weren’t so stinking expensive I’d probably own a hundred of them. Seriously though, aside from the aesthetics is there really any difference between a high end and entry level reel? I think it depends. Paying hundreds of extra dollars for a sexy reel won’t help you land more fish for sure, but there are some key features that can help give you an edge.

Arbor Size
The arbor is the center section of the reel that holds the backing and line. There are several arbor sizes to choose from… small medium and large.

  • Small: A small arbor reel is best suited for lighter weight rods and smaller streams. Because of its compact size it’s a good choice for the mobile or backcountry angler. (best paired with 1-3 wt rods)
  • Medium: A mid arbor reel is the most versatile of the three sizes as it offers a good balance between retrieval speed and weight. It would be considered the workhorse of the reel family. It can handle big fish, but not as adequately as a large arbor reel. (best paired with 4-6 wt rods)
  • Large: With its roots coming from the salt water world the large arbor reel is the perfect fit for the streamer fisherman. Its larger diameter allows for faster line pick up and retrieval rates which is key when fighting those bigger trout. (best paired with 7-8 wt rods)

Drag
Drag is one of those features that can be overplayed at times, but even so it’s an integral part of the fly reel. The two common drag systems used today are the disc drag and the click and pawl (your hand). Most disc drag systems, even ones on lower end reels, are good enough to get the job done – but then again you do get what you pay for. The higher end reels will have smoother longer lasting drags overall. If you’re pairing it with a high end rod there is no reason to skimp here.

Durability
There are two mainstream materials used for reels – cast aluminum and machined aluminum.

  • Cast aluminum is a good entry to mid range option. The main drawback is cast aluminum can be heavier and more susceptible to cracking if dropped.
  • Machined aluminum is the most durable, light weight and attractive of the three. Pricier, but worth it in my opinion, especially for a streamer rig that will probably be taking a beating.

Reel Recommendations

Mid Range ($300)

  • Orvis Hydros
  • Sage Spectrum

High End Range ($400-$500)

  • Ross Evolution LTX
  • Sage Trout

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